We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn More \u203a<\/span><\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n Single bevel broadheads have leveraged simple technology to boom in popularity over the last decade\u2014right alongside the most advanced archery tackle.\u00a0Debating the best type and style of broadhead\u00a0can be contentious, and it requires that you consider a number of factors. Many hunters stake their bets on the simplicity and reliability of fixed-blade broadheads, and single bevels are chiseling a strong foothold in the market. I\u2019ve been a fan and proponent of single bevel broadheads for a long time, and I\u2019ve gathered some of the best and most popular to help you choose wisely.<\/p>\n A single bevel broadhead has edges that are only ground on one side of the blade\u2014often at 25 degrees. Unlike most knife edges or the edge of any given broadhead, where the grind is even on both sides of the blade, the reverse side of a single bevel edge is flat. Grab the scissors out of your junk drawer for an example of what a single bevel broadhead\u2019s edge looks like.<\/p>\n Fans of single bevel broadheads credit them with three main advantages:\u00a0<\/p>\n Because the angle of most single bevel broadhead edges is 25 degrees, they can be made sharper than that of conventional edges\u2014even a double bevel edge with a 15-degree grind on each side is still a 30-degree edge. Many knives and broadheads have edges that are 20 degrees or more on each side.<\/p>\n As a single bevel broadhead is pushed through a medium, the edge leverages and rotates the broadhead in a spiral. Double bevel broadheads stop the rotation of the arrow and plunge straight through. If you hold an arrow loosely in your fingers and press a single bevel broadhead through a piece of paper, you\u2019ll feel it begin to rotate and leave an S-shaped cut. This rotation and edge design reduces resistance and helps the broadheads split heavy bone and penetrate deeply.<\/p>\n The foremost proponent of single bevel broadheads is Dr. Ed Ashby, who conducted\u00a0years of testing and experimentation<\/a>\u00a0on arrow lethality and penetration, and his work is often referenced by fans of single bevel broadheads.\u00a0<\/p>\n Read Next:<\/strong> Single Bevel Broadheads: Everything Bowhunters Need to Know<\/a><\/p>\n The two biggest complaints from new users of single bevel broadheads is that they plane off course and they are hard to sharpen. With a well-tuned and properly-fletched setup, I\u2019ve found the opposite to be true. There are a couple of key things to consider.<\/p>\n With a properly tuned setup, I find single bevel broadheads to fly better and straighter than field points. There are some key factors for making this happen:<\/p>\n Your bow needs to be in tune, sure, but your arrow spine, shaft length, and point weight all need to be dialed in and producing a straight-flying arrow. Changing spine, arrow length, point weight, or even switching to different arrows with the same spine will require re-tuning.\u00a0<\/p>\n Fletching will mask poor tuning and arrow flight with field points, and even some broadheads, but a single bevel point cuts and rotates through the air in the same manner that it does through flesh. If your arrow is flying crooked, the broadhead will cause the arrow to plane and veer off course.\u00a0<\/p>\n With your point weight and arrow length dialed in, check to ensure that each point spins true and isn\u2019t bent or wobbling. As the arrow spins through the air, a broadhead that\u2019s out of whack can cause the same planing issues as a poorly tuned arrow.\u00a0<\/p>\n Even in compound bows, it\u2019s helpful to use helical fletching that matches the broadhead\u2019s bevel. You\u2019ll find single bevel broadheads in either \u201cright bevel\u201d or \u201cleft bevel\u201d configuration\u2014which simply indicates which side of the blades the grind is on. Use a \u201cright wing helical\u201d fletch for feathers or vanes for right bevel, and \u201cleft wing helical\u201d for left bevel. This way, both the vanes and broadhead will spin the arrow in the same direction.<\/p>\n Unlike throwaway broadheads, many single bevel broadheads are built to be used over and over\u2014and they need to be built tough to break bone. Some single bevel points come razor sharp from the manufacturer, but many require some end-user sharpening. Although some claim that single bevels are difficult to sharpen, they\u2019re actually quite easy. Even some of the rougher points can be made shaving sharp with only a strop and some polishing compound. For chipped or really rough edges, a KME sharpening jig and flat stone, or a system like\u00a0Work Sharp Precision Adjustable<\/a>\u00a0sharpener make sharpening single bevel broadheads easy.<\/p>\n One of the key points for getting single bevel broadheads terrifyingly sharp is to ensure that your stone or strop is working all the way out to the edge of the blade. Some broadheads have a slightly concave grind that requires resetting with a sharpener to achieve maximum sharpness. Another point is to resist grinding on the back side of the edge. Sharpening will roll a burr over the edge. Laying the blade flat on the back side, and gently straightening the burr is all that\u2019s needed. Don\u2019t grind an additional bevel on the reverse side. Finishing your edge with a strop will help you get the broadhead so sharp that it cuts hair with only a light touch.<\/p>\n Read Next:<\/strong> Best Knife Sharpeners<\/a> <\/p>\n <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n Key Features<\/strong><\/p>\n Pros<\/strong><\/p>\n Cons<\/strong><\/p>\n After Tommy Clum of Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear had a single bevel broadhead break when shooting a moose, he set out to a design a broadhead with his brother Dan, and father Tom Sr. The Cutthroat is the result. It\u2019s a one-piece, machined point that features a wide chisel tip to resist curling, 25-degree edges, and grooves in the blade and ferrule. They are available in a variety of weights and in either carbon steel or S7 Tool steel, which is highly impact resistant.<\/p>\n It would be dishonest to omit my friendship with the Clums when pumping the Cutthroat as my personal favorite broadhead, but it\u2019s a product that stands on its own with few equals. These broadheads vary in price based on size and material, and are sold in packs of three. I\u2019ve killed quite a few bears with these ranging from 150- to 250-grains. They\u2019ve always had excellent penetration, even through bone. In a couple of cases, I\u2019ve shot multiple animals with the same broadhead. They usually require only a light stropping.\u00a0<\/p>\n I shot both the standard and wide-cut Cutthroats into the heavy moose leg bones, and both buried completely up to the arrow. The bone rolled edges on the wide cut point, but it was still serviceable. I shot a 150-grain standard Cutthroat from my 70-pound compound with a 650-grain arrow directly into the ball at the top of the front leg bone (the one that the scapula connects to). It\u2019s essentially four inches of solid bone, and I had to chisel the bone apart to retrieve my point. The edge took no discernable damage and was still shaving sharp.\u00a0<\/p>\n Cutthroat broadheads are premium points that vary quite a bit in price depending on the weight and steel. They\u2019re available in both screw-in and glue-on configurations too. The wide-cut model is 1 \u00bd-inches wide and is one of the most devastating broadheads I\u2019ve used. All cutthroats can be sharpened easily, but they can also rust easily. It\u2019s important to coat the carbon steel with oil, Vaseline, or something like\u00a0Valkyrie Archery\u2019s Jag Wax<\/a>. The heads have a lifetime guarantee, so if you ever break one, they\u2019ll replace it, no questions asked.<\/p>\n <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n Key Features<\/strong><\/p>\n Pros<\/strong><\/p>\n Cons<\/strong><\/p>\n Iron Will broadheads were born of the mind of Bill Vanderheyden from the desire for a better, more dependable point. Iron Will first produced double bevel broadheads, but now has single bevels in a variety of weights. Their single bevel broadheads have essentially the same robust shape and durable components as the double bevels, but with single bevel edges on both the main blades and bleeder blades. They also offer a version without bleeder blades. Because the bleeders are also single bevel, they\u2019re less likely to inhibit penetration, and cut in the same direction as the main blades while opening up a larger wound. The back side of the main blades is sharpened in a single bevel too, so that if an arrow is pulled backwards from a wound, it will continue to cut.\u00a0<\/p>\n The heads are tipped with a tanto-style tip to resist breaking or curling, and leverage the blade\u2019s force into bone. The A2 Tool steel blades maintain a very sharp edge, and can be re-sharpened\u2014though the process is a bit more tedious than with many other single bevel broadheads. They\u2019re treated and tempered to provide an optimal balance of hardness without being too brittle. I did find that glancing blows to moose leg bones would knock chunks out of the edge where carbon steel points would simply roll. The point remained serviceable and on a direct hit, buried up to the threads in the bone.\u00a0<\/p>\n The blades are fixed into the ferrule with a single torx-head screw, and the ferrules are either titanium or stainless steel depending on the weight of the point. Iron Will Single Bevels come at a high price, but if you\u2019re looking for the best that money can buy, these should be right at the top of your list.<\/p>\n <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n Key Features<\/strong><\/p>\n Pros<\/strong><\/p>\n Cons<\/strong><\/p>\n The Helix broadhead is one of the first single bevels I heard about. An outfitter I worked for told me how quickly one of his clients had killed a huge brown bear while using one, and the large blood trail it left. That stuck with me. Helix is now owned by America\u2019s Best Bowstrings, but they\u2019re still producing the uniquely-shaped single bevel heads, which have a long, narrow tip, then flare outwards dramatically for the last third of their length. This is intended to balance penetration with a wide wound channel. The stainless blade is secured to a stainless or aluminum ferrule (depending on weight) with a single screw, and the back edge of the blade is beveled as well. Like most single bevels, edges are 25 degrees, and the tip is chiseled. This point didn\u2019t take any significant damage or edge rolling when shot into the moose\u2019s leg.<\/p>\n Helix broadheads generally fly really well, and aren\u2019t too bad to sharpen\u2014though the pack I just bought wasn\u2019t very sharp. All edges of the broadheads still had a visible burr. This is no biggie for an experienced sharpener, but if you\u2019re expecting razor-sharp, hunt-ready points, you\u2019d better double check. These broadheads are priced pretty well at about $22 apiece, and Helix-specific sharpening tools are available.<\/p>\n <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n Key Features<\/strong><\/p>\n Pros<\/strong><\/p>\n Cons<\/strong><\/p>\n Although availability is hit-or-miss, Grizzly single bevel broadheads are one of the classic designs that\u2019s been around for decades. It\u2019s one of the best single bevel broadheads for shooters who use wooden arrows or simply like to tinker and experiment with a variety of adapters and inserts. These are the first single bevel broadheads I ever used, and I\u2019ve killed a number of large grizzly bears with them. These broadheads are made from two sheets of 1075 steel that\u2019s spot welded and copper brazed together, with a 25-degree single bevel edge. They have a chiseled tip to prevent curling, and penetrate deeply with their long, slowly narrowing blade.\u00a0<\/p>\n When I first started buying Grizzly broadheads, I\u2019d have to throw away one out of every package of six for being out of true, or because of a defect, but the last years I was buying them, quality had improved dramatically. These are points you will have to sharpen before hunting with, but a KME jig or other sharpener and a strop will get them dangerously sharp. These points are available with aluminum screw-in adapters already glued on, but I preferred to order the glue-on broadheads and use them with steel adapters. I found that the\u00a0Valkyrie Archery Viking Centerpin<\/a>\u00a0adapters made for an incredibly tough arrow.\u00a0<\/p>\n These broadheads aren\u2019t as tough as some of the precision-made, premium points, but I\u2019ve never broken one on an animal. I watched my dad punch one through both shoulders of a bull muskox with his 50-pound recurve, splitting the near scapula from top to bottom.<\/p>\n Read Next<\/strong>: Best Broadheads<\/a> <\/p>\n <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n Key Features<\/strong><\/p>\n Pros<\/strong><\/p>\n Cons<\/strong><\/p>\n The Abowyer bonehead single bevel broadhead is a very traditional design that takes advantage of modern materials and precision welding. Abowyer has had clout in the single bevel game for many years, and these broadheads display the effectiveness, of a simple, gently-sloping design. They are a two-piece broadhead that you can get in 1075 carbon steel or 420 stainless steel, and consist of a threaded ferrule with a thick blade laser welded onto it. Like many other single bevels, it features a chiseled tip and a precision-ground edge. They also feature an un-sharpened bevel on the back of the blade to prevent the arrow from backing out of a wound channel, and this edge could be user-sharpened too.\u00a0<\/p>\n Bonehead broadheads come razor sharp, treated with oil, and with the edges protected by a removable dip plastic coating. If you choose the 1075 steel, make sure to keep the edges oiled in your quiver, and they will serve you well. Overall, it\u2019s an excellent quality head, and the only obvious weak spot is the weld between the ferrule and blade. When shooting the moose bones, the point buried into the bone, but the weld snapped, sending the ferrule-tipped arrow back away from the target. When I recovered the point, the tip was curled over dramatically. This was an abusive test that wouldn\u2019t dissuade me from using these points, but i\u2019d be more careful about shot placement.<\/p>\n <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n Key Features<\/strong><\/p>\n Pros<\/strong><\/p>\n Cons<\/strong><\/p>\n Grizzly Stik is synonymous with heavy-duty, deep-penetrating archery gear, and their Samurai single bevel broadheads are made in the fashion of those favored by Dr. Ed Ashby. They share the long, slender shape of several other single bevel points, and have an ultra-tough 440C stainless blade that\u2019s secured to a long aluminum ferrule with 2 screws. These are available in 125- and 200-grain models, and both have consistent edge grinds and the chisel tip that single bevel points are known for. Though aluminum isn\u2019t as strong as steel, the ferrules on these points are long and secured by two screws.<\/p>\n The Samurai is a premium single bevel point that\u2019s advertised as coming razor sharp. Though the ones I bought were sharp enough to hunt, they aren\u2019t nearly as sharp as I\u2019d want them to be. I couldn\u2019t get them to shave or cleanly cut paper. With some work on a stone and strop, I was able to get them scary sharp, but with 440C stainless, it\u2019s not nearly as easy as with 1075 or other high-carbon steel.<\/p>\nWhat Is a Single Bevel Broadhead?\u00a0<\/h2>\n
Single Bevel Broadhead Advantages <\/h3>\n
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Keys to Making Single Bevel Broadheads Work for You<\/h2>\n
Spinning, Tuning, and Fletching<\/h3>\n
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Sharpening Single Bevel Broadheads<\/h2>\n
Best Single Bevel Broadheads: Reviews and Recommendations<\/h2>\n
Best Overall: RMS Gear Cutthroat Broadheads<\/a><\/h3>\n
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Best Four Blade: Iron Will Single Bevel<\/a><\/h3>\n
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Best Value: Helix FJ2<\/a><\/h3>\n
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Grizzly Single Bevel<\/a><\/h3>\n
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Abowyer Bonehead Carbon<\/a><\/h3>\n
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Grizzly Stik Samurai<\/a><\/h3>\n
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Bear Razorhead Single Bevel<\/a><\/h3>\n
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