{"id":2106,"date":"2024-02-10T04:34:36","date_gmt":"2024-02-10T04:34:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/?p=2106"},"modified":"2024-02-10T04:34:36","modified_gmt":"2024-02-10T04:34:36","slug":"how-to-sharpen-a-chainsaw","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/?p=2106","title":{"rendered":"How to Sharpen a Chainsaw"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<div class=\"product-disclosure\">\n<p><em>We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/affiliate-disclosure\/\">Learn More <span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u203a<\/span><\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>We have all heard the idiom that \u201cthere\u2019s more than one way to skin a cat\u201d, and while I don\u2019t know too many methods for skinning felines, I do know plenty of ways to sharpen a chainsaw. There are lots of chainsaw sharpeners out there, and different techniques for using them, but if you want to know a simple way to get your chainsaw sharp and efficient, keep on reading.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>I will go over a tried-and-true method that doesn\u2019t require expensive equipment, and can be done just as easily in the woods as it can be done in the garage. I\u2019ll help you get the correct tools for your saw, and go through the whole sharpening process, start to finish. With a little patience and consistency, you\u2019ll have a nice sharp chain when you\u2019re all done.\u00a0<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-what-you-will-need-to-sharpen-a-chainsaw\">What You Will Need to Sharpen a Chainsaw<\/h2>\n<section class=\"acf-product-card-block recurrent-blocks bg-white flex flex-col items-center mb-7\">\n<div class=\"product-image mb-7\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"product-card-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Oregon-Chainsaw-Field-Sharpening-Kit\/dp\/B084XV4TGX\/ref=asc_df_B084XV4TGX?tag=camdenxodl-20\" rel=\"noopener sponsored noreferrer nofollow\" target=\"_blank\"><br \/><br \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t<a class=\"product-button-link no-underline w-[281px] h-auto rounded-3px py-3 px-6 inline-flex justify-center align-center bg-primary px-4 py-2 text-white uppercase font-bold hover:bg-secondary hover:!no-underline hover:!text-white focus:bg-secondary-focus active:bg-secondary\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Oregon-Chainsaw-Field-Sharpening-Kit\/dp\/B084XV4TGX\/ref=asc_df_B084XV4TGX?tag=camdenxodl-20\" rel=\"noopener sponsored noreferrer nofollow\" target=\"_blank\">See It<\/a><\/p>\n<\/section>\n<p>There are loads of sharpeners available, but for this method, you will need a simple, inexpensive <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Oregon-Chainsaw-Field-Sharpening-Kit\/dp\/B084XV4TGX\/ref=asc_df_B084XV4TGX?tag=camdenxodl-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">file and guide set from Oregon<\/a>. The set includes a round file with a guide, and a flat file and depth gauge. These file sets come in four different sizes to match the common chain tooth profiles. Or, for about $27, you can get a kit that comes with all the round files, plus the flat file and gauges and guides. There are other companies that make very similar kits, and some of them are good quality tools. I have been using Oregon files for quite a while and they haven\u2019t let me down, which is why I recommend them here.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>As a side note, you don\u2019t <em>need<\/em> the file guide, but having one helps you get a more consistent angle and bite on each tooth. This makes the process faster for most people.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><strong>Read Next: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/gear\/best-chainsaw-sharpeners\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Best Chainsaw Sharpeners<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-step-1-find-the-correct-file-size-for-your-chain-nbsp\">Step 1: Find the Correct File Size for Your Chain\u00a0<\/h2>\n<p>If you have the owners\u2019 manual for your saw, the chain type and file size needed should be listed in there. Or, if you have an aftermarket chain on your saw, the package that the chain came in will have the required file size listed on it as well. But, what if you have an old saw and an old chain and you don\u2019t have those things? Well, if you bought the full kit, you can simply see which file best fits the tooth.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Check which one fits the curve in the chain that will contact the whole cutting surface of the tooth. If the file only contacts one part of the tooth, it\u2019s too small, and if it\u2019s only touching the top and bottom with a gap in the middle, it\u2019s too large. The file should fit the curve totally and contact the entire curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Obviously, it\u2019s better to just have the correct info, but the guess-and-check method will work if you can\u2019t find the info online or in your manual.\u00a0<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio\">\n<p><div class=\"youtube-embed\" data-video_id=\"tTsJe5-ECpg\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"OREGON Chain Sharpening\" width=\"696\" height=\"522\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/tTsJe5-ECpg?feature=oembed&#038;enablejsapi=1\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/p>\n<\/figure>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-step-2-attach-the-guide-to-your-file-and-start-sharpening\">Step 2: Attach the Guide to Your File and Start Sharpening<\/h2>\n<p>Once you have found the correct file size, you can slide the handle on the file, and attach the file guide. The guide has lines on it that you will line up parallel to the bar, which will help keep you at a 30-degree angle. That\u2019s the most common angle for cutting the teeth.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Files only cut in one direction, and so \u201csawing\u201d back and forth isn\u2019t what you\u2019ll want to do here. The files only cut when \u201cpushing\u201d them. The tip of the file is where the cutting should start, ending down closer to the handle.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>You can file from either side of the tooth, but whatever you choose, keep it the same for all teeth, left and right. So, you can choose to start the tip of the file \u201cinside\u201d the chain and file outwards away from the tooth, or start the tip at the \u201coutside\u201d of the tooth and file inwards. Either way, the file only cuts as it is pushed. You can push with the handle, and use your other hand out near the tip to keep the stroke flat and even.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>If the teeth are just dull, and not heavily damaged, I usually make three strokes on each tooth. I quickly check to make sure the whole curve is being sharpened from the top of the tooth down to the flat as the base of the side curve, and that the file is cutting the whole surface of the curve from the inside to the outside. You should be able to feel a slight burr on the top and outside of the tooth. That lets you know that you apexed the whole cutting surface. I drag my finger along each tooth to feel a burr, and then move to the next one. For damaged teeth that hit a rock, you may need to make additional passes to remove the damage and raise a burr.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>I use a marker to color the tooth I started on so I know when I make it around the whole chain. You can also start at the \u201cbreak\u201d in the chain, which is usually marked by two cutting teeth in a row facing the same way, or a colored link. Either way works to keep you oriented.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>After I have done all the teeth facing one way, I switch to the teeth that face the opposite way, and work my way around again. Remember to switch hands with the file to keep the cutting direction the same for left and right teeth. If you don\u2019t want to switch hands, move your body to the other side of the saw, or turn the saw around.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-step-3-file-the-depth-gauges\">Step 3: File the Depth Gauges<\/h2>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?w=2000\" alt=\"chainsaw chain\" class=\"wp-image-281045\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg 2000w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=1536,1152 1536w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=600,450 600w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=267,200 267w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=880,660 880w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=533,400 533w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=1115,836 1115w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=920,690 920w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=288,216 288w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=539,404 539w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=1192,894 1192w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=1003,752 1003w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=925,694 925w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=280,210 280w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=1440,1080 1440w, https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/chainsaw2.jpg?resize=50,38 50w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Remember to file your depth gauges to keep your saw running through wood quickly.  Photo by Drew Connover<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Once you have sharpened all of the cutters, the next step is to file down your depth gauges (or guide links). With the Oregon kit, place the Depth Gauge Tool over the chain, and align the slit over the depth gauge you want to file. There will be a little bit of the depth gauge sticking up with the cutting tooth. Be careful not to hit the cutter when filing the guide. Take your flat file and push it across the depth gauge until it\u2019s flush with the depth gauge. This will usually only take a stroke or two. Some people just make one firm stroke on each depth gauge each time they sharpen. I have tried that, and it seemed to work. If you don\u2019t file your depth gauges, your cutter links will shave off thinner and thinner chips every time you sharpen the chain, and eventually, the chain won\u2019t cut even if it\u2019s razor sharp. The guides determine how deep a bite the cutting links will take out of the wood. Not taking down your depth gauges will result in slower and slower cutting.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>After you have filed all teeth, and all the guides, you\u2019re done! It will only take a few minutes once you get the hang of it, and you will easily make up that time by ripping your saw through logs like it\u2019s a hot knife through butter. You can gas up, top off your chain oil, and get to work.\u00a0<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-how-to-sharpen-a-chainsaw-faqs\">How to Sharpen a Chainsaw, FAQs<\/h2>\n<div class=\"schema-faq wp-block-yoast-faq-block\">\n<div class=\"schema-faq-section\" id=\"faq-question-1707516246128\"><strong class=\"schema-faq-question\">How often do I need to sharpen my chainsaw chain?<\/strong> <\/p>\n<p class=\"schema-faq-answer\">When it\u2019s dull! You can tell that your chain is dull if the saw no longer cuts through logs easily or if it\u2019s turning out really fine sawdust. You want to see big sawdust chips while you\u2019re cutting.<\/p>\n<p>How quickly a chain goes dull will generally vary quite a bit depending on whether you\u2019re cutting green wood or seasoned wood, if the logs have sand or dirt on them, and even the type of wood you\u2019re cutting. But, as a rule of thumb, if you sharpen your chain every time you refill your fuel tank, you should be good to go. When I\u2019m doing firewood, I\u2019ll run my saw until it runs out of gas and then give it a quick sharpening. I top off gas and oil, and get back to cutting. This way, I\u2019m not getting frustrated with a dull chain. However, sometimes if I hit a bunch of dirt, or the logs are muddy, I will have to sharpen more often to keep things moving.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"schema-faq-section\" id=\"faq-question-1707516260815\"><strong class=\"schema-faq-question\">How many times can I sharpen my chain before it needs to be replaced?<\/strong> <\/p>\n<p class=\"schema-faq-answer\">This depends on how much material you take off each time, and how much damage the chain gets from hitting rocks. Chainsaw chains have marks on the cutting teeth to let you know when to stop sharpening and replace the chain. If you sharpen a chain too much, the teeth can thin out and weaken and break off. Realistically, a chain will last years for use around the house or farm. It\u2019s still a good idea to have at least one spare chain around just in case one breaks or gets heavily damaged.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"schema-faq-section\" id=\"faq-question-1707516269827\"><strong class=\"schema-faq-question\">My chainsaw doesn\u2019t cut straight. It pulls to one side. What\u2019s wrong?<\/strong> <\/p>\n<p class=\"schema-faq-answer\">If your saw is not cutting straight through, it can be either a twisted bar, or an imbalance in chain sharpening. When I was new at sharpening, I thought I had somehow bent my bar because the saw wasn\u2019t cutting straight. It turned out that I wasn\u2019t sharpening the left and right teeth equally, so one side cut faster, and made the cut curve. This is a major reason for making a good effort at keeping consistent from first tooth to the last, left and right sides.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><strong>Read Next: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/gear\/best-electric-chainsaws\/\">Best Electric Chainsaws<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-final-thoughts-on-how-to-sharpen-a-chainsaw\">Final Thoughts on How to Sharpen a Chainsaw<\/h2>\n<p>While there are many other methods and sharpeners for keeping your chainsaw sharp, this simple process will yield good results every time, and keep your chain from being subjected to excess material removal, which will increase its lifespan. Once you go through this process a few times, you will speed up significantly, and get better and better results. Keep your saw nice and sharp. It will cut faster and be safer to use.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p><br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.outdoorlife.com\/gear\/how-to-sharpen-a-chainsaw\/\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn More \u203a We have all heard the idiom that \u201cthere\u2019s more than one way to skin a cat\u201d, and while I don\u2019t know too many methods for skinning felines, I do know plenty of ways to sharpen a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2107,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-2106","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gun-news"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2106","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2106"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2106\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2107"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2106"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2106"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/americangunpeople.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2106"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}